At the roof of the world
Aichi summer is a good indication to us godless heathens what awaits in the next life. The heat is bad, but the humidity makes every moment outside of an air conditioner’s radius a struggle against the sweat of 120 million people.
Tsuna and I tried to get away from the sauna last weekend by traveling to Togakushi in Nagano prefecture. Togakushi is a shrine town near Nagano city, located on some small stretches of flat land 1200 meters above sea level. For over a thousand years, the mountain area has been revered as a centre for both Buddhism and Shinto. Pilgrims still come to the five shrines on the mountain to chant sutras, some hiking for eight hours from Zenkoji down below in Nagano city. However, it’s not only its religious ties that made Togakushi stand out. The area is famed as being a hideout and training area for Nishina Daisuke, a founder of the Togakure Ryu ninja school.
These days, the day-trippers, hikers and skiers outnumber the pilgrims and ninja by a vast majority. Tsuna first came to the area in her Girl Scout days to learn how to ski. Her ski instructor also runs the ‘Lamp café’ near the town centre, so visiting him (for Tsuna) and trying out his coffee (for me) were high on our list of priorities. Both were successful. Once the surprise of the reunion had passed, my wife and he spent some time reminiscing about Girl Scouts both past and present. I, on the other hand, was enjoying the coffee and chocolate cake. There’s a dairy pasture further up the mountain, so the milk and the cream in Togakushi were much fresher than the stuff we get from the supermarket.
After we said our goodbyes, we followed the map printout to our ryokan for the night. The ‘Yokokura Ryokan’ has been in business since the Meiji period (mid 19th century), but there’s been a smaller side temple on the spot since Heian times (12th /13th century). Many of the ryokans in Togakushi used to be side temples to the main shrines back in a time where pilgrimages were more common. The building itself was both in good condition and in need of renovation. The bathroom and toilets were pretty up-to-date, although there were some stains in the guest rooms that might have dated back to the Meiji as well. My main complaint with the place (and Togakushi) was the multitude of flying insects, but the town is right next to a forest and a multitude of mountain streams. I don’t imagine any of the pricier ryokans would have been any different.
On our first day in town we didn’t do too much. We checked out Chusha Shrine and ‘Lamp’ before having a good dinner at the ryokan and then heading to bed. The next morning we woke a few minutes after 6:00, had a Japanese breakfast and got ready for a half-day hike up the mountain. Only a couple of days before, a group of hikers had gotten lost and died of hypothermia on a three-day hike up in the mountains we were heading to. Of course, no one had decided to inform me of this fact until we had already gotten to Togakushi, so I was neither forewarned nor forearmed. Luckily, the weather held and we stuck to the path to survive to make another blog update.
Our first destination was Okusha and Kuzuryusha shrines at the top of the mountain. It was a three kilometer hike through along the road with some shortcuts through forest tracks. Every so often we would come across a moss-encrusted lamp or statue by the track. The bigger ones had a small plaque that explained why it was there and what it symbolized. The smaller ones further off road had no such signs, leaving it up to Tsuna and I to come up with our own explanations.
We reached the entrance to the two upper shrines near the Togakushi campsite, but we still had a lot of walking to do. It was a 1 and 1/2 kilometres walk from the entrance to the main Tori gate, followed by another 1 and 1/2 kilometres up the mountain to reach the shrine. The path was bordered by towering red cedar trees that kept the path in shade and cool for the climb up. At that time of the morning there were not that many tourists or pilgrims, so it seemed like we had the mountain to ourselves.
Tsuna and I often scream “Snake!” when we hike to see if we can get the other to jump. Since coming to Japan, the only time I’ve seen a serpent has been after it had become road kill. When we reached the final approach to the two upper shrines and the trees parted to allow some sunlight to reach the path, Tsuna didn’t yell “Snake!” We’ve both become immune to it after so many times. She just told me to not move and look down. A long brown and yellow snake had been enjoying the morning sun two steps up from us and was now slithering off into the undergrowth by the path. I wouldn’t say that I’m scared because: a) Japanese snakes are non-lethal and b) they feed us snake venom in Australia from the cradle to build up immunity. Still, I did spend the rest of the nature hike with at least one eye to the ground.
So back to the shrines!
They seemed to be partially built into the mountain, as the room inside the shrine was larger than the outside shrine itself. There are a total of 33 caves in the area, so I wouldn’t be surprised if these shrines had been built from the homes of monks who meditated up in the mountains. I can understand why they came here to meditate. The view of the mountainside was something inspiring. Peeking over the roof of Okusha shrine were the upper ridges and peaks of Mt. Togakushi and Kuzuryu. They phased in and out of view as clouds passed between the top and us. I must have taken twenty photos of the mountains from different vantage points, much to my wife’s annoyance.
We headed back down the mountain and took a detour to Kagami lake, which in the morning and evening becomes a giant water mirror. We arrived a bit too late for that, but the view was pretty enough to make the walk through bear country worth it. It was nearly midday at this point, and both Tsuna and I were getting pretty hungry for some Togakushi zaru soba. On the hike back we came across a rock with a pool in the middle of it by the cliff side. From the cliff we had an amazing view of the Northern Alps, where some of the mountains still had patches of snow near their summits. As for the rock, it is called Suzuri ishi and anyone who dips a writing instrument in the small pool will be granted a gift with words. If I had hauled my Macbook Pro along on the hike, it might have been baptized then and there.
We managed to get back into town in time for some brief souvenir shopping and rest before the bus. The trip back to Nagoya was nightmarish and one that I have no particular desire to go into here. However, I really enjoyed our time up in the roof of the world. Hopefully we will be going back there next year too.







